36 hours in Mysuru, Karnataka

It is Dasara and the 10-day festival, celebrated from October 15-24, attracts oceanic crowds to Mysore from all over. Here’s what all to do in the city over the long weekend besides partaking in the festivities.

The elephants have long arrived, the lights are out and the city roads are now being given a last-minute make over.  It is that time of the year again when the city of Mysore (now called Mysuru) gears up for an extravaganza quite like none other.  It is Dasara and the 10-day festival that is celebrated from October 15-24, attracts oceanic crowds to Mysore from all over.

Often referred to as “Nadda Habba” or state festival, Dasara celebrations in Karnataka is intrinsically associated with the royal family of Mysore who perform elaborate pujas for the occasion.  The spectacle is marked by kaleidoscope of musical, cultural and sporting events and includes literary, film and food festivals, exhibitions and the like.  The much-awaited jumbo sawari which is the traditional Dasara procession from the Amba Vilas Palace to the Banni mantap grounds takes place on the last day and is a fitting finale to the grand celebrations. The highlight of the procession are the bedecked pachyderms led by 57-year-old male elephant Abhimanyu who will be carrying the 750 kg golden howdah which is a golden mandap holding the idol of Goddess Chamundi inside it.  The elephants are bought almost 50 days prior to the festival and are subject to intense training, acclimatisation exercises and mock drills before the D-day.

Dasara is unarguably the best time to visit the cultural capital, as Mysore is also known.  The city is a picture of unparalleled resplendence and almost every corner is abuzz with the vibrance of the festivities. While the Mysore palace and Chamundi hills are the main places where most of the Dasara action is focused on, the city is also home to a number of engaging sights which form for a great idea to visit when here.  Here is a 36-hour itinerary to soak in the festive spirit of Mysore.

DAY 1

7 am – Karanji Lake

Karanji lake, Mysore

One of the oldest lakes in Mysore, this one is located just about two kilometres from the palace and very close to the famous Mysore Zoo.  Spread over 90 acres, the lake is a key lung space of the city and is the ideal venue for a brisk walk amidst nature.  The lake complex also has a beautiful park that is home to some unique flora and bird species.  There are boating facilities and a bird watch tower too.  Do not miss the butterfly park and India’s largest walk-in aviary when here.

9 am – Mahesh Prasad for breakfast

After all the walking, it is a great idea to recharge your batteries with a wholesome, sumptuous breakfast treat.  Head to Mahesh Prasad in Lakshmipuram for fresh, authentic South Indian fare.  Apart from their fluffy idlis and crispy vadas, try their bonda soup which is essentially lentil fritters dunked in sambhar.  For a quintessentially Mysore experience, sample their benne masala (masala dosa with a generous helping of butter) and the unique paper masala dosa. Wash it down with a cup of strong filter coffee and you are set for the next part of your day.

10 am – Railway Museum and RK Narayan House

RK Narayan House, Mysore

Mysore is home to several interesting museums and the Railway Museum in the centre of the city is one of them.  Step back in time as you view heritage engines, coaches, signalling equipment, lamps, and signposts.  The highlight of the museum is the Mysore Maharani saloon built in the late 1890s that is a piece of engineering marvel.  Set amid greenery, the museum is an ideal place for adults and children alike.

If you are a fan of RK Narayan and his books, a visit to his house in Yadavagiri which is now converted into a museum is a must do.  The small but engaging museum houses a host of artefacts like his awards, books and personal belongings.  There is an entire section dedicated to his renowned book the Malgudi Days which traces the adventures of little Swami and his friends.

1 pm – Tiger trail, Metropole for lunch

Head over to Tiger trail housed within the heritage Metropole hotel for an inviting meal.  The restaurant is known for its Tandoori specialties as well as kebabs. With tastefully done up interiors and a pleasant ambience, the restaurant also serves a host of continental and oriental dishes.

3 pm – Devaraja Market

Inside Devaraja Market

This landmark building that is over 130 years old is closely woven into the socio-cultural fabric of the city. Dating back to the 18th century, it is teeming with shops selling fruits, vegetables, puja articles, flowers, etc.  The go to place for several indigenous products like the Mysore jasmine, it is also the perfect place to soak in the local culture of the city.  The heady cocktail of sights, sounds and smell of the market is inimitable.  Visit the legendary Guru sweets in the complex which is supposed to be the place where the city’s famous dessert Mysore Pak was invented.

6 pm – Malgudi Coffee Shop

Housed within the charming Green Hotel which was originally the Chittaranjan Palace, built for Mysore’s princesses, Malgudi coffee shop was established almost a decade ago to further the cause of women’s empowerment and entrepreneurship.   Savour a carefully curated range of finely baked goodies and pastries like chocolate and lemon drizzle along with beverages like Mysore filter coffee and cappuccino.

7 pm – Mysore-by-night

Roundabouts in Mysore

Watch the city transform into a stunning spectacle starting 7 pm each day during the festival as the awe-inspiring lights come on. The crowning glory is the palace that is illuminated with close to 100,000 bulbs.  This year the Dasara illumination is planned for a whopping 129 circles in the city coupled with 33 specially crafted giant illuminated sculptures. Take a stroll along some of the main roads like the JLB road, Sayyaji Rao road, Irwin road, Ashoka road, Devaraj Urs road, Dhanvanthri road, Chamaraja Double and Mahatma Gandhi road to soak in the spirit of Navratri.

8.30 pm – Dinner at MTR

Call it a day by enjoying an appetizing meal at the legendary Mavalli Tiffin Room in Jayalakshmipuram.  Known for its delectable south Indian fare, MTR is a great place to enjoy delicacies like the rava idli, bisibele bath and Chandrahara. The fruit salad with a scoop of their trademark American ice cream is  a treat you do not want to miss.

DAY 2

7 am – Heritage walk

Mysore Clock tower

Mysore is home to innumerable heritage structures with most of them being built in the Indo-Saracenic, traditional Hindu and even Gothic style.  If you love architecture, take a walk along the Central Business District (CBD) and surrounding areas to witness colonial bungalows, monkey topped houses, government offices, churches and palaces. The Mysore university building, Clock Tower, Band house and roundabouts like the Chamarajendra Circle, Krishnaraja Circle and Jayachamarajendra Circle are just some of the notable structures you can spot.

9 am – Vinayaka Mylari for breakfast

Dosas at Vinayaka Mylari hotel.

Known for their buttery dosas which are filled with vegetable sagu as opposed to the conventional potato curry, this hole in the wall outlet is a must visit in Mysore. Dishing up melt in your mouth dosas for over 80 years, this one is located in Nazarbad and is called Original Hotel Vinayaka Mylari.  Make note that ‘original’ is the key word for the outlet has no other branches.

Inside Vinayaka Mylari hotel


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