India’s diversity has led to a plethora of ways of celebrating the same festival.
Dussehra, the 10-day festival, fires the imagination of an entire country like nothing else. Often referred to as the festival that epitomises the triumph of good over evil, it is heavily associated with mythology and imbued with legendary stories. Fascinatingly, every state and every region has a version that is slightly or vastly different from the other. The result is a chequered board of traditions that are rooted in local culture and heritage, and a treat to witness and participate. Here are some of the most captivating ones.
Mysore Dasara: For royal pomp and splendour
There’s Dussehra and there’s Mysore Dasara. It is even spelt differently. A full-blown spectacle, it combines royalty and splendour, custom and tradition, pomp and show, gaiety, music, dance, fun and frolic with a bit of modernity thrown in. The whole city, especially the beautiful Amba Vilas Palace, is decorated and illuminated for ten days. Its history goes back more than four centuries to the time when Mysore was under the rule of the Vijayanagara empire. The festivities kick off with a traditional puja of the presiding deity — Chamundeshwari on Chamundi hills. Each day, the scion of the erstwhile Mysore kingdom, Yaduveer Wadiyar, holds a ceremonial darbar complete with courtiers and costumes. On the last day, Vijayadashami, an elaborate procession of elephants, vintage cars, floats, marching bands and others winds its way through the city and ends with a stunning torchlight display. During the ten days, there are dance, music, theatre and folk performances across the city, poetry readings, sports events, a youth festival, an expansive fair in the Dasara Grounds, aerial displays, and a plethora of events and activities.
Vadodara: Making a song about dance
In Gujarat, Dussehra or Navratri is all about dance. Quite literally. For the entire period, people gather as communities to dance the night away. And while this happens across the state, it is in Vadodara (Baroda) that is known for its massive congregations. Thousands of people dressed in elaborate and colourful dresses, gather in expansive stadia with live music in the centre; they either do garba or dandiya (with short colourful sticks). The last day, Vijayadashami, is marked by feasting on fafda and jalebi.
Kolkata: For the love of a Goddess
Across Bengal, Dussehra is distilled to one just one word — pujo. Cliched as it may sound, it’s a word that unites Bengalis far more than roshogolla and football can ever hope to do. While Dussehra lasts 10 days everywhere else, it is the last five-six days when festivities ramp up. Everything comes to a standstill during this time. And Kolkata is where it is at its spectacular best. Goddess Durga is front and centre, and magnificent pandals, decorated to the hilt, come up across the city, each vying to outdo the next one in scale, design and patronage. They are even better at night, lit beautifully and accompanied by music and events. Pandal-hopping, dressed in colourful traditional finery, is an essential activity and sampling food offered alongside the pandals is equally crucial. On the last day, the statues are taken in procession and immersed in the Hooghly.
Varanasi: month-long saga of Rama
Often heralded as the one of the oldest living cities in the world, Varanasi goes by several names and has several epithets attached to it. One of them is the ‘land of the Ramlila.’ The city takes on a special look on most festive occasions but it is even better during Dussehra. This is also the time when the opposite banks of the city, where the little village of Ramnagar is located, comes alive since it is here that the Ramlila is performed. Legend has it that the first performance was staged more than 200 years ago, and it takes place over a whole month.
Kota: for a dose of Rajasthani
While Dussehra is certainly celebrated across Rajasthan, the Kota Dussehra, held on the banks of the Chambal river, holds special place. A massive fair comes up and is filled with dance, music and folk performances, artisans and their wares, and a schedule that is designed to showcase local Rajasthani culture and heritage. It is common to see people dressed in colourful traditional clothes; they visit temples before immersing themselves in the fair. The highlight is certainly the vibrant procession from the palace to the fairground with decorated camels, horses and elephants. There are rides, games and plenty of attractions, as well as food stalls that offer local snacks and delicacies. Kota Dussehra is also known for one other thing: it culminates with the burning of gigantic effigies of Ravana accompanied by much noise and fervour.
Kullu: Passage of the deities
For much of the year, Kullu in Himachal Pradesh, is known for its lush greenery and spectacular scenery. It’s not usual to associate it with Dussehra, but it happens to be one of the region’s most sought after event because of its uniqueness. For starters, the festival begins on the last day, when Dussehra celebrations are winding down everywhere else. It starts with a procession — a rath yatra — and goes on for a week. As part of this, deities from temples in the region congregate at Kullu and then return. On the sidelines are plenty of other things happening simultaneously such as the phool yatra, a massive fair, a folk festival and other things are integral parts. The Ramlila is performed through the week and week-long festivities culminate with the burning of effigies.
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