Ask renowned fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani what the Unique Selling Proposition of his creations are and he will tell you it is the sophistication and timelessness of the pieces. ‘I often hear that people can wear our clothes even 20 years after they were purchased,’ says the co-founder of Ensemble, best known for his mastery in infusing Indian craftsmanship and textile heritage with tailored silhouettes.
‘Apart from [sophistication and timelessness, what sets us apart], is our integration of Western construction and fit techniques with the finest Indian craftsmanship. I consider this blend quite rare, and it’s the comfort it provides that adds to the luxury of our clothing.’
Tarun requires little introduction. Founder of India’s first multi-designer boutique in 1987, and the Tahiliani Design studio a few years later, he is known for infusing traditional aesthetics with modern design. Among the celebs– Indian and international– who have carried off his styles with aplomb include Madhuri Dixit Nene, Lady Gaga, Nita Ambani, Oprah Winfrey, Victoria Bekham, Paris Hilton, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Mahendra Singh Dhoni and Aishwarya Rai Bachchan.
More recently, Aditi Rao Hydari, Rakul Preet, Sara Ali Khan, Karisma Kapoor and Jhanvi Kapoor were some of the stars who were spotted in a Tarun Tahiliani outfit.
‘I believe the world is becoming wealthier, and our clients are now global. They demand a certain level of fit, finesse, and finish. I think they are all very modern and part of the jet-set crowd,’ says Tarun, explaining why his styles are popular across the globe.
An admirer of Indian heritage and culture– and deeply inspired by it– the designer says India is often associated with color and embroidery. ‘This has been most defining for me– the exquisite way people traditionally draped fabrics around themselves. Each region had its own style of draping, much like it had its own language or cuisine. What’s even more fascinating is that everyone who draped the same fabric looked different, reflecting the uniqueness of each body.’
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Bemoaning the loss of individuality due to ‘mass gentrification’, he aims to bring the structured drape and the beauty of that tradition into a modern context so that it can be worn today without the need for intricate self-adjustment. ‘To me, this is the most striking statement of Indian fashion.’
Tarun says that the inspiration for his bridal collection is something that is ongoing. ‘I look at architecture, paintings, museums, old textiles, and modern fashion. I sense the vibe, where people are headed next in terms of freedom, lightness, and the fun they seek without feeling weighed down,’ he says. He also observes the confidence people have today in being themselves. ‘All these factors help us create our collections.’
It also helps that he has a dedicated R&D team working on motifs and prints once he provides them with inspiration. While a team of 12 specialize in high-quality embroidery and artwork, he also uses dyeing machines, and has collaborations with various centers that simultaneously conduct sampling for his team. ‘Ultimately, it all comes together like a delicious concoction,’ says the master designer.
Tarun is delighted that the modern bride is ‘breaking all the conventional bridal fashion rules. ‘She isn’t merely breaking bridal fashion rules; she is shedding the tired conventions and perhaps the somewhat outdated norms of excessive dress, heavy jewellery, and overdone makeup.’ According to him, these norms belonged to another era and are no longer relevant today. ‘[Modern] brides are well-educated, global, and have travelled the world, all while being equals in their families. They want to have fun and look amazing while doing so. It’s fantastic. It’s wonderfully easy for me because I’m a modernist within the context of our rich traditional heritage,’ says the man whose favourite style icons include Minal Modi, Rekha, Jacqueline Kennedy, Lady Gaga, and Cate Blanchett.
What is the role of social media when it comes to bridal style?
‘Social media plays a crucial role in spreading our story because it allows us to reach people instantly,’ he admits. ‘However, it has also made many people miserable as they become obsessed with others’ social media profiles, attempting to project themselves as uber-cool… Consequently, people end up projecting unrealistic images, and those consuming this content can feel pressured.’
Tarun who has looked up to designers like Galliano, Dior, Asha Sarabhai, Ritu Kumar, McQueen, and Donna Karen– ‘she has always been a favorite of mine because she took traditional shapes and transformed them into contemporary fashion by draping and reimagining them’– aims to create a legacy that is quite simple: ‘a style and perspective that empowers women while staying true to our heritage. It’s not merely about costume; it is about modern fashion that evolves with the times, defining what modern India truly represents.’